Going down the dessert rabbit hole

WHILE meant as a children’s story, Alice in Wonderland grips the imagination to this day. While we can’t go down the proverbial rabbit hole (or can we?), Conrad Manila launched a buffet concept that should feel the same.

Conrad Manila held a preview for their dessert buffet, called Wonderland Reverie, on April 18 at their buffet restaurant, Brasserie on 3. All of the buffet stations were transformed solely for dessert that day, providing a task just as daunting as Alice’s.

Rupert Hallam, general manager of Conrad Manila, told us in an interview that they got the idea from a similar concept from their sister property, the Tokyo Hilton, some years ago. “The amount of detail, time, and effort that got into producing all of the desserts is incredible,” he said about this Philippine edition. According to Nicolas de Visch, executive chef at the Conrad Manila, brainstorming and executing all the ideas took about two months.

Each station had a theme: Mr. De Visch said in a group interview, “It’s been placed on your arrival according to the chapters of the book,” he said, referring to Alice in Wonderland. “But it’s really all about the way you want it.”

That’s why it started with a Victorian Tea Party-theme, decorated daintily and laid out with treats such as madeleines and a Battenberg Cake (pink and yellow sponge cakes beneath a marzipan shell; supposedly named after Queen Victoria’s granddaughter and King Charles’ great-grandmother, Princess Victoria of Hesse, who married into the princely House of Battenberg).

The next station was “Down the Rabbit Hole,” through which Alice entered Wonderland. Treats included miso caramel brownies and maple bacon cupcakes. Then there was the “Mad Tea Party,” where Alice met the Mad Hatter and the Hare. There was dulce de leche pot de creme and a pistachio sphere, among others. We then went to the “Red Queen’s Court,” which, of course, had chocolates dyed red and shaped like roses (and other things), but also her famous tarts.

There was a savory interlude called “Frabjous” (a made-up word in the book), and here we had our fill of sausage rolls (made with a woven pastry shell), salmon blinis, and smoked tomato soup. The next station was the “Pool of Tears” (which Alice created by weeping), with curious food and drinks marked “Eat me” and “Drink me.”

At the White Queen’s station, there was chocolate babka and a donut wall, but also a castle carved out of white chocolate. Overall, the whole display brings a sensorial delight.

That is, if you can handle it all.

During the launch, we only managed to eat about five plates (savories included). Combined with the free-flowing tea, it’s certainly a task for two hours.

Mr. Hallam, general manager of Conrad Manila, told us in an interview, “For celebrations, it’s perfect. Everybody likes a bit of indulgence.

“Once in a while is fine,” he said when we pointed out the task of actually going through all the desserts. “Everything in moderation.”

The dessert buffet is available every Saturday and Sunday until July 31 from 3 to 5 p.m. for P2,500 net per person. For inquiries, call 8833-9999 or e-mail MNLMB.FB@ConradHotels.com. — Joseph L. Garcia