Glam dining at Morton’s

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Miso-Marinated Seabass

Prime Ribeye

Tomohawk

WITH the Art Deco-style lettering in the sign and the impressive interiors, it’s easy to think one has somehow traveled back to a more glamorous time at Morton’s The Steakhouse in Bonifacio Global City (BGC). It is absolutely helped by the menu, which relies on classic flavors.

For its first anniversary in the Philippines on Dec. 16, BusinessWorld sat down to a lunch in one of the private dining rooms at the steakhouse, brought here by The Bistro Group. A franchise from the US, the chain was founded in Chicago by Arnold J. Morton and Klaus Fritsch. Both of them had worked together at the Playboy Club in Montreal, so the pair knew a thing or two about glamor. The restaurant has since changed hands, and is now owned by Landry’s.

Starters that day included a classic Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail and a Bacon Steak, paired with Tenuta Ammiraglia Alìe Rosé Toscana. The shrimp had an old-fashioned cocktail sauce and tasted quite clean to the palate. The wine it was paired with was nice and fruity, and accented the sweet flavors in the cocktail sauce. With the Bacon Steak, basically a huge fat slab of cured bacon, the wine tempered the saltiness and smokiness and made it milder.

Another pair of classics came next, a Lobster Bisque and a Caesar Salad. (The lineup of appetizers made this writer thankful he wore a nice blazer because, despite the pleasant company, the restaurant made one feel as if they were in a mid-century period drama and had to dress and act the part.) These selections were paired with Bouchard Père & Fils – Pouilly Fuissé Bourgogne. The soup was made with fresh cream and chopped lobster (with the broth poured on top of it by a server). The wine, with a soft skin scent and a citrusy taste, was a bit lost in the weight of the bisque; however, the same citrusy notes made the salad sparkle.

A Miso-Marinated Seabass was served next, almost too pretty to eat. This was paired with a Domaine du Bouchot Pouilly-Fume, a wine with a scent that reminded one of fresh linen. With the silky seabass, both bathed each other with elegance.

Then came the main events: the steaks. There was the Wagyu Sirloin (12 oz, price unlisted), a Ribeye (16 oz, at P6,900), and a Tomahawk (36 oz, at P14,995). These were paired with Black Stallion – Héritage Cabernet Sauvignon. While the steaks performed as expected at those prices, we give a special commendation to the wagyu, which could have veered into too-tender, but the right doneness and its supreme flavor give it some fight and light cheer. The wine was elegantly flavored and paired it correctly. The steaks had sides of Smoked Gouda au Gratin, Truffle Creamed Corn, and Garlic Rice.

The desserts, paired with a proper Sauternes Castelnau de Suduiraut, were the Morton’s Legendary Hot Chocolate Cake and a Candied Walnut Cheesecake. The chocolate cake, oozing in the center, lived up to its name and gave a dark contrast to the sweet, light wine; we thought the cheesecake a bit too rich after everything.

Morton’s chef Daniel Lachica explained to BusinessWorld that “Morton’s is a classic steakhouse from the US. We wanted to do the same here. We went the old-school Morton’s theme, with an upgrade of something new; more dynamic. As we would say, a ‘sexier’ vibe of a dining experience.”

One notices the attention paid to the wine for the lunch, and all credit goes to their sommelier, Ryan Escabillas. Mr. Escabillas, that day, wore a tastevin on a chain, a mark of his profession. He earned his certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas, and is currently in charge of over the 300 bottles and vintages in the restaurant.

Mr. Lachica said, “Wine is always important. It’s not just to enhance the meal, but also a reflection of different countries and things out there.” Morton’s is at Uptown, 11th Ave. corner 36th St., BGC, Taguig. For reservations and inquiries, visit www.mortons.com.ph or call 0917-144-9415. — Joseph L. Garcia