The search for authentic Turkish food in Malaysia

From freshly baked pide to hearty kebabs and traditional desserts, Turkish Café Istanbul is known for its authentic offerings. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

KUALA LUMPUR: Growing up in Turkey, I developed a lifelong love of its cuisine. Now, a month into my stay in Malaysia, I have found myself missing those familiar flavours.

So, when I came across Turkish Café Istanbul in Glo Damansara, curiosity quickly took over. Could food served thousands of kilometres from home bring back the same comfort I grew up with? Would it taste as authentic as I remembered?

I visited the eatery to find out whether it lived up to its promise – and, with a Turkish chef at the helm, I had a good feeling it just might.

“I started working in the restaurant business at the age of 12. Cooking is all I know,” said head chef and owner Deniz Alkoc, who first opened the restaurant at another location in Taman Tun Dr Ismail before moving to its current premises.

Deniz pointed out that the interior is inspired by the Ottoman and Seljuk eras. Colourful Turkish ceramic plates lined the walls, while Ottoman-style lamps cast a warm glow across the dining room.

Chef Deniz Alkoc opened Turkish Café Istanbul in 2014 to share the flavours of his homeland with Malaysians. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

The traditional touches instantly brought back a sense of nostalgia – but would the food do the same?

“Our food is 100% authentic – and when I say authentic, I mean I follow recipes from the Anatolian region,” Deniz explained.

“Even in Turkey, every place has its own flavour. You can go to two different doner shops in Istanbul and they’ll taste completely different.”

Deniz shared that the restaurant’s early years were its most challenging. “There weren’t many Turkish restaurants back then, so Malaysians weren’t that familiar with our flavours.”

Judging by the packed dining room at just 11am, however, those struggles seem long behind him.

The Ottoman Kebab combines tender lamb, creamy eggplant purée, tomato sauce and melted cheese. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

Like many Turkish meals, mine began with mezze: small shared plates that serve as appetisers. Paired with freshly baked lavas bread, the platter featured five dishes: hummus, grilled eggplant dip (babaganoush), spicy tomato dip, green beans, and patlican soslu, an eggplant-based dish.

Every item served tasted exactly as I remembered, and was especially delicious with the warm bread.

Next came the freshly baked pide – a traditional boat-shaped flatbread from the Anatolian region. Topped with sucuk, a spicy Turkish beef sausage, and melted cheese, it was wonderfully comforting.

One bite instantly reminded me why I have always preferred it to Italian pizza.

Then there was the Ottoman Kebab, a signature dish by Deniz. Tender lamb is served on a bed of creamy eggplant purée, topped with tomato sauce and generous amounts of gooey cheese. If lamb isn’t your thing, chicken is also available.

For me, this was the dish that came closest to recreating the flavours of my childhood.

Baklava, layered with pistachios and served with homemade Turkish ice cream, makes a fitting end to the meal. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

If you’re after something heartier, order the testi kebab – slow-cooked chicken and vegetables served in a clay pot cracked open at your table. It’s as much a dining experience as it is a meal.

And if, like me, you have a sweet tooth, don’t leave without trying the baklava. Made with 44 crisp, buttery layers of pastry, filled with ground pistachios and served with homemade ice cream, it is one of Turkey’s best-loved desserts.

Round off your meal with a traditional Turkish coffee, served with water and chocolate. The custom is to sip the water first to cleanse your palate, enjoy the coffee, then finish with the chocolate to balance its bold flavour.

The version here is exactly as rich and robust as I hoped. If you prefer something creamier, there’s also a Turkish coffee latte.

This charming establishment aims to recreate the warmth and hospitality of a traditional Turkish eatery. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

Deniz is quick to highlight that Turkish food is far more than just doner and kebab. “My biggest dream is to introduce our full cuisine to the whole of Asia,” he said.

So, whether you’re trying Turkish food for the first time or searching for an authentic taste of Turkey, this is a restaurant well worth visiting.

After a month away from home, Turkish Café Istanbul gave me something I hadn’t realised I was missing – the comfort only familiar and authentic food can bring.

Zeynep Can is an undergraduate at the University of Westminster and an intern at FMT.

Follow Turkish Café Istanbul on Instagram.

Turkish Café Istanbul
LG-08 Glo Damansara,
699 Jalan Damansara,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail,
60000 Kuala Lumpur

Business hours: 9am-11pm daily