A new year for Rajo Laurel

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KADAYAWAN

ANG BAGONG BARONG

DATU

DATU

THE first month of the year is turning up roses for designer Rajo Laurel: he’s set to represent the Philippines in Thailand in an artistic presentation on Jan. 30.

The presentation, titled Malikhaing Pinoy: Lahi (roughly translated: Creative Filipino: Race) is part of the partnership Thailand’s Creative Economy Agency (CEA) established with the Philippine Creative Industries Development Council (PCIDC), under the Department of Trade and Industry.

The Malikhaing Pinoy Program is a flagship initiative of the government designed to champion and support the Philippines’ creative industries. In line with Republic Act No. 11904 (An Act Providing for the Development and Promotion of the Philippine Creative Industries, and Appropriating Funds Therefor) or PCIDA (The Philippine Creative Industries Development Act), the program aims to nurture Filipino creativity, protect cultural heritage, and promote local artisans and entrepreneurs on both domestic and international stages.

Mr. Laurel is leading the pack, with other designers set to show their accessories alongside his clothes in Thailand. These collaborators include Arnel Papa, Celestina Maristela Ocampo, Cholo Ayuyao, Monchét Diokno Olives, and MX Studios by Maxine Santos Tuaño.

During a preview last month at Bonifacio Global City’s Manila House, Mr. Laurel showed off some of the creations, each with names evocative of Philippine culture, set to show in Bangkok

The Mestiza (a word used for a mixed-race woman) reinterprets the traditional palda (skirt) and camisa/blusa (shirt/blouse) ensemble using woven and dyed jusi from Iloilo, paired with a skirt in raw silk and abaca from Abra. The ensemble is accentuated by black silk royal blooms with coq feathers crafted in Pampanga by Mr. Ayuyao, demonstrating meticulous Filipino artistry.

The Kadayawan, inspired by Mindanao’s festive celebrations, features a bodice made of hand-woven straw from Sorsogon and cropped culottes using a nipa hut-inspired technique made from rayon and silk woven in Ilocos, highlighting regional weaving traditions.

Datu (the title for a local pre-Hispanic chieftain) draws from the heritage of the T’boli tribe, combining paper silk with ramie linen trousers and the traditional malong (tube skirt), accented with a tampipi (woven box) from Benguet and a giant bead tassel from Dumaguete.

The Manileña (a woman from Manila) and Bagong Barong (new barong — a translucent Filipino formal shirt) offer modern interpretations of the barong Tagalog, crafted in jusi and styled with farmer-inspired silhouettes and jute bibs.

The ensembles are completed with handmade stampitas (small devotional picture cards) by Mr. Ayuyao and lanyard abaniko (hand fans) by Mr. Olives of Casa Mercedes.

Inspired by world-renowned Baguio weaver Narda Capunan, another ensemble brings together the Mountain Province’s earthy hues and storytelling through weaving techniques. It is paired with a crocodile bag by Masbate-born Ms. Ocampo.

Finally, the Paradiso, developed in collaboration with Arnel Papa, pays homage to the natural beauty of Palawan. The gown incorporates Palawan’s world-class shells from Bacolod, paired with an oversized raffia straw clutch.

In a statement, Mr. Laurel said, “Who is the Filipino? This is the question I explore in this collection, Lahi. Fashion has been my medium to understand heritage, identity, and culture — not only through materials, but through how our people interact, the values that guide us, and how these stories can remain relevant for today and for future generations.” He added, “Being Filipino can mean many things. There is no single definition of our culture. With Lahi, my perspective bridges who we are and who we can become. Understanding our roots empowers the future.”

In a group interview, he discussed what he wants the Thai people to say when they see his clothes: “I want them to say, ‘Wow. I want to go to the Philippines.’ I want them to say, ‘Oh my God. The Philippines is incredible.’

“It’s easy because Thailand is like our sister. We basically share a lot of similar things. But the way we approach things is quite different,” he said. “I wanted to showcase a fresh new identity; of what it is to be a modern Filipino.

“This is the Filipino today; and we’re beautiful.”

Having celebrated the 10^th anniversary of The Rajo Store in Rockwell late last year, his flagship will face a revamp and will open two more branches. The partnership in Thailand is also an opening for the designer, celebrating more than 30 years in fashion, to go regional. “Definitely. 100%.”

He’s in talks to open collaborations and pop-ups abroad: “Unahan natin sa Thailand, kasi doon tayo mag-uumpisa (let’s start in Thailand, because that’s where we’ll begin).” — Joseph L. Garcia