North Luzon’s Romantic Road

There’s something timeless and soul-stirring about taking a road trip through scenic, storied landscapes.

In Germany, the famous Romantic Road, stretching 460 kilometers from the Baroque city of Würzburg to the Alpine village of Füssen, meanders through a fairytale-like vista of rolling hills and vineyards, walled towns with half-timbered houses, Gothic cathedrals and medieval castles, and thick forests and towering mountains, their peaks crowned with snow.

Launched in 1950 to rebuild tourism in the country’s Bavarian and Baden-Württemberg regions, this picturesque route now draws 24 million visitors a year.

Inspired by Germany’s success, other countries like Japan, South Korea, and Mexico have created their own versions of the “Romantic Road” — routes designed not only for sightseeing, but also for deep emotional immersion into their national heritage, natural wonders, and enchanting local life.

What about the Philippines?

Often celebrated for its dazzling beaches, the Philippines holds inland gems equally breathtaking and fascinating — none more so than North Luzon’s highland corridor.

One oft-overlooked but unforgettable route winds around the mystical Cordillera and the Carballo mountains peopled by the Igorot groups.

It spans 396 kilometers of surface roads, from the misty ridges of Malico in Nueva Vizcaya to the terraced heights of Banaue, the mystical caves of Sagada, and the pine-fringed hills of Baguio City in Benguet.

Driving down this route, you would catch sight of rugged mountains and terraced hills planted to rice and vegetables, rainforests and river systems, and traditional villages.

What makes traveling in these parts all the more pleasant is that all four major stops are nestled in high elevations, allowing you to observe and soak in the native culture up close in cool, inviting temperatures all year round.

This North Luzon route could be our very own Romantic Road — a ribbon of adventure, serenity, and indigenous heritage, ensconced in the cloud-kissed heart of Luzon.

Some of the must-see, “Instagrammable” attractions along the way are:

• The Banaue Rice terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned as the world’s eighth wonder;

• The Bontoc Museum, a repository of Cordilleran tribal artifacts and antiques that also showcases a replica of a traditional Cordilleran ancestral village;

• The Chico River, a 233-kilometer-long waterway in the Mountain Province considered the “river of life” by the surrounding indigenous communities that has become a popular white water rafting venue during the summer months;

• Mt. Data Hotel – an inviting, dreamy hideaway atop a hill, built in 1960, that hosted the signing of the historic peace pact between the Philippine Government and the Cordillera People’s Liberation Army;

• The Halsema Highpoint Road marker in Benguet, with a view deck 2,255 meters above sea level offering a sweeping view of valley below and the majestic Mt. Pulag in the far horizon.

A minimum of four days would suffice to navigate the whole route and to sightsee. Ideally though, you should allot seven or more days to your itinerary to allow for exploration and immersion.

Each of the four major stops — Malico, Banaue, Sagada, and Baguio — feels like a world unto itself. Let’s explore them, one by one.

MALICO, NUEVA VIZCAYA A HIGHLAND EDEN
Tucked into the boundary of Nueva Vizcaya and Pangasinan, the idyllic mountain village of Malico sits on a rise 1,675 meters above sea level. Its many vantage points offer a panoramic view of the sprawling Pangasinan plains and ruggedly beautiful Caraballo Mountains.

This remote, unspoiled hamlet is home to the Kalanguyas, whose quiet way of life is steeped in tradition. Here, mornings are cloaked in mist, and the silence is broken only by winds whispering through pine forests.

Malico was a major battleground between the American and Filipino Allied forces and the Japanese Imperial Army during World War II. The remains of a Sherman tank, foxholes, trenches, and caves bear witness to the vicious battle that raged for four months and speak of valor on all sides.

BANAUE, IFUGAO: STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
Banaue is world-renowned for its rice terraces which are spread out in five clusters: Batad, Bangaan, Hungduan, Mayoyao Central, and Nagacadan. Stretching 10,360 square kilometers, these giant steps, hand-carved by the Ifugaos with only primitive tools 2,000 years ago, stand out today as an enduring feat of engineering and communal enterprise.

The Batad rice terraces, curved and soaring to the heavens in semi-cylindrical shape along the mountain slopes, their walls protected and embellished by huge boulders, are arguably the most spectacular. Their stunning features have earned for Batad a place in many lists of the world’s most beautiful villages.

SAGADA, MOUNTAIN PROVINCE: A MYSTIC HIDEAWAY
Foreign backpackers had already been flocking to Sagada long before local tourists even heard of it. Its rich natural features, mystic traditions, and remoteness molded this far-off destination into an irresistible magnet for nature lovers and adventurers.

Limestone cliffs cradle the town, where underground rivers run through caves, like Sumaguing and Lumiang. Waterfalls, such as the 200-foot high Bomod-ok, spill down steep green ravines. Ancient hanging coffins, lashed high on cliff faces, speak of ancestral beliefs and rites unique to these mountains.

BAGUIO CITY, BENGUET: A HILLTOP SANCTUARY
Acknowledged as the country’s summer capital, Baguio has always been a top-of-mind vacation destination for city dwellers. With its cool climate, pine-scented air, and vibrant blend of old and new, Baguio is both a nostalgic retreat and a cultural hub.

Stroll through Burnham Park or take in sweeping vistas from Mines View Park. Visit heritage landmarks, like The Mansion and the Baguio Cathedral, or explore local artistry at the BenCab Museum.

In between, there’s strawberry taho (silken tofu snack), ukay-ukay (second hand clothes) hunting, horseback riding, and freshly brewed coffee in mountain cafés with breathtaking views.

UNLOCKING NORTH LUZON’S TOURISM POTENTIALS
North Luzon’s Romantic Road has a huge potential to draw in hordes of domestic and international travelers looking for distinct and authentic rural getaways. It’s just waiting to be unlocked. For hikers, bikers, trekkers, or just plain adventurers, it is the ideal slow-travel destination that prioritizes mental tranquility and deep connection with nature and culture.

To reach its full potential, however, the government, through the Department of Tourism, must upgrade the existing public facilities and offerings along the route. Some of the immediate improvements needed are:

1. Construction of world-class rest areas with clean toilets at regular intervals;

2. Upgrading the local delicacies’ standards, like pinikpikan (beaten chicken), binakle (a steamed rice cake), inlagim (chicken stew with ginger), binungor (stir-fried snails with bamboo shoots), etc.;

3. Clearing of the towns’ main roads of traffic obstructions to improve the travel experience or converting certain areas into strictly walkable zones;

4. Opening up or making available first-class public transport dedicated to this route;

5. Putting in place an efficient garbage disposal system;

6. Full-blast promotion of the area as our Romantic Road.

Understandably, the current focus of our tourism promotions is on our beaches — having some of the best in the world. But it is to our advantage to showcase the diversity of our country’s allures to attract more visitors.

Our version of the Romantic Road is out there, ready and waiting to be discovered. It conforms to the current tourism trend towards offbeat peaceful retreats, instead of commercial spaces.

In the final reckoning, our country is the “Pearl of the Orient” not only because of the attractiveness of our peripheries but the beauty that lies at the core of our boundaries. Romantic Roads could even pave the way for a cultural reawakening that could reinforce national pride.

Edgardo “Ed” C. Amistad is member of the Agribusiness Committee of the Management Association of the Philippines or MAP. He is also the adviser of the Philippine Disaster Resilience Foundation and is a former president of UCPB-CIIF Finance and Development Corp., and UCPB-CIIF Foundation.

map@map.org.ph

edgardo.amistad@yahoo.com